I have a table of values that tells me how to convert from meter reading to exposure time for a few important print zones (II, IV, VI, XIII). I use my flash meter (dome removed to expose the bare photodiode) as an enlarging meter and use that to program my f/stop timer - use an f/stop timer if at all possible as it will save your hair. Record your successful print settings carefully and you'll find that once you have a handful of good results from one film, you can probably go directly to a near-perfect print if your new neg was shot in similar light on the same film. You'll find that for a specific paper/film combination that the exposures and colour settings are very very similar, differing only slightly with lighting conditions. Endless inspection of test strips during printing will send your vision wacky and reduce your ability to judge casts.
Once you have a good workprint, stick it on the wall and live with it for at least 24 hours before going back to it. Only judge fine results from DRY paper because drydown shifts the hue by about 1CC to 2CC. Look at the midtones only when guessing corrections: the highlights are less sensitive to filter changes and the shadows are more sensitive to filter changes. It'll take a while to get a feel for how much to adjust the colour to correct any particular cast. You should make colour test-strips, iterating an important bit of scene through (say) 4 different colour settings by some step (10CC being quite coarse, 2CC being moderately fine). The reason is that the enlarger bulb has a different (warmer) colour when heating/cooling at switch-on/off, so an exposure with one heat/expose/cool cycle has different colour balance from an exposure made up of 4 of those cycles. Density test-strips are made similarly to how you would with B&W but you must expose each section of the strip just ONCE only, you can't expose them cumulatively. Then fix the density again (to maybe 0.2 stop?) because the colour changes will have affected it. Get the density in the ballpark (half-stop iteration is more than fine enough), then fine-adjust the colour. To get a good print takes a little practise. The bleach part might grow grey floaty mould in the long term (photographically irrelevant, just scoop it out before you do any replenishment) but a splash of Listerine or formalin will prevent that. The bleach does NOT work separately from the fix, they must be mixed together into a blix working-solution. after making a 16x20 you would replenish the dev with 60mL and the blix with 30mL of each of bleach and fix. When replenishing, you replenish equally from the two sources, e.g. mix the bleach concentrate into 5L and the fix concentrate into another 5L which, if mixed, would be 10L of blix-replenisher. What I do is make up two half-solutions, i.e. I bought the 4x5L kit and made up 5L about 18mo ago, it still works the same as the day I made it.īleach eats fix, so mixing up all the blix is a not-great idea. Make up the dev with distilled or spring (low oxygen and iron) water and store it in the 10L mylar bag-in-box that the water came in.
Make up ALL of the developer replenisher from the concentrate as it keeps better as replenisher than conc. Replenish each with with 15mL of replenisher per 8x10 (don't forget the test strips!) I usually replenish on every second sheet and once extra at the start of a session. Make up 200mL of developer solution (requires starter) and blix solution. 4:00 wash (or about 0:10 if it's a test strip) 0:20 prewash recommended, but drain it well to prevent developer dilution for example a taped up led light (or two) in a kitchen darkroom that is barely noticeable, etc.Ĭhemical process is at 35C, continuous agitation: I've heard color printing requires complete darkness (except for the exposure), wondering how stringent this is. should I get control strips (I don't mind experimenting on a few sheets of paper) chemistry tips, temperature suggestions To start, I would like to enlarge 4x5 to 8x10, and contact print 8x10. 11x14 Beseler print drum and roller base Print File Custom Proofer with glass on a hinge over foam (will this make good contact prints?) Omega 4x5 enlarger, with 50mm, 90mm, 135mm lenses
#KODAK C 41 CONTROL STRIPS ARCHIVE#
Kodak RA-4 Prime STB/Replenisher 10 Liters Item #: EKY8264442 $9.77įuji Crystal Archive Paper Type II 8x10 Lustre (100 Sheets) Item #: FJP8967 $42.07ĭid I forget anything or get anything wrong? Kodak Ektacolor RA Developer Starter for Color Negative Paper - 80 Oz. Kodak Ektacolor RA Developer Replenisher RT for Color Neg Paper makes 10l Item #: EKY8415580 $14.26 I ordered these items from Unique Photo :
0 kommentar(er)
